As of mid December, my garden has experienced only the slightest touch of a light freeze, so some plants are still blooming, especially those plants which hug close to the ground. The late season availability of flowers makes for happy, busy pollinators during sunny days.
The autumn blooming ground-cover, Gregg’s Mistflower, Conoclinium greggii, is a favorite of many pollinators, big and small. This native-to-Texas perennial boasts bright green foliage and vibrant flowers with a fuzzy structure that pollinators adore.
I’ve seen many a Grey Hairstreak, Strymon melinus, nectaring on the mistflowers. This is one of its kind visiting, wings spread wide, proboscis deep in the bloom.
Another common pollinator of the popular aster are Fiery Kippers, Hylephila phyleus. I particularly like the orange and brown of the skipper paired with the bloom’s rich lavender color.
An American Hoverfly, Eupeodes americanus, can’t resist the bounty of the mistflower. I’ve seen other flies pollinating, but catching them in action proves elusive on breezy days. This yellow-n-black stripey fella cooperated with the photo session.
As always in my garden, the honeybees are active. If there’s a flower available for sipping, honeybees are all-in.
Yellow is a color of autumn and this Little Yellow, Pyrisitia lisa, is one of several who’ve worked the patch of mistflower for the past few weeks.
The Queen rules the mistflower. Queen butterflies, Danaus gilippus, are regulars in my garden. During autumn and until the first hard freeze, they’re particularly fond of Gregg’s Mistflower; Queens are some of its most loyal customers. This male Queen, along with several others of both genders, flit to the mistflower once the sun is shining on the blooms.
Male Queens and Monarchs have two black dots on their hindwings, located on either side of their abdomen. The black dots emit pheromones to attract the females. And they look cool, too!
Another queenly view…
Weirdly, Monarchs, Danaus plexippus, are still migrating through Central Texas on their way to their Northern Mexico wintering homes. I don’t recall seeing monarchs this late in fall, but I’m happy that there’s plenty for them to nectar from.
This Monarch’s wing looks like it met with a predator or possibly another kind of accident. It flew well though and I’m sure it will have no trouble getting to Mexico–assuming no other mishaps.
Tres mariposas, three butterflies–all in a row! Two Queens (left and center) and one Monarch, far right. Did I mention that these butterflies love Gregg’s Mistflower? Often there are even more individuals snacking at the patch of flowers.
More admiring fans of mistflower are Painted Lady butterflies, Vanessa cardui. The ones visiting my mistflower have been skittish, but I finally caught a couple of photos demonstrating their enjoyment of the flowers–and their beauty.
These are but a few of the pollinators working this popular flower during the zenith of its bloom season. Not shown, but definitely groupies of Gregg’s Mistflower, are multitudes of tiny native bees (which never seem to perch and pollinate, but must do?) and other too-quick-to-catch-with-the-camera butterflies. This lovely plant will bloom and provide for pollinators until a hard freeze renders it dead for the season. Fuzzy blooms then turn a warm toasty color and over time, mistflower fluff drifts with the breezes.
In a few month’s time and with spring’s warmth, new growth will emerge from the soil, signature puffy flowers will appear in clusters, and pollinators will return.
While the various landscapes were stunning and the beauty of the birds mind-boggling, there were other wild things that we experienced in lovely Costa Rica. We spent most of our trip hiking in rural areas, national parks and reserves, as well as strolling through established garden spaces. Wildlife abounds in Costa Rica, confirming its reputation as a richly, bio-diverse nation.
Where flowers are, pollinators follow and that’s certainly true in Costa Rica. We saw plenty of native bees, wasps, butterflies and moths. Many butterfly species we encountered live in a wide geographic range, including where I live in Texas. Familiar garden friends like Queens, Gulf Fritillaries, and Yellows thrive in Texas and also in tropical Costa Rica.
Most of my CR butterfly interactions occurred when the jeweled insects wafted along my path as I walked. Like those who visit my garden, the CR butterflies weren’t always cooperative when I wanted a photo. A few obliged, though, like this dainty, a Great Southern White, Ascia monuste.
Clearwing butterflies, which I don’t see in Texas, are abundant in Costa Rica and we saw several kinds. I was fortunate to snap this resting Thick-tipped Greta, Greta morgane.
Ants were a thing on several of our hikes. In particular, cutter ants are always fascinating to watch. We saw several busy colonies, a couple with large mounds.
We also came across several groups, or maybe I should say columns, of army ants. They were amazing to watch, and determined as they marched, focused on forward movement, across pathways. As the ants marched, other insects cleared out of their reach, catching the attention of mixed flocks of colorful birds, ready to munch on fleeing, frightened insects. Poor insects: army ants on one side, hungry birds on the other! We observed this in forested areas and the events allowed us to observe tanagers and other gorgeous birds at work, nibbling on insects.
Coatimundi, or White Nosed Coati, are common in Costa Rica’s forest areas, and belong to the raccoon family. The local name for coati is Pizote. Family groups foraged in the gardens and green spaces near our the lodges. Coaties are comfortable with people, though they keep their distance–as we did from them. They are omnivores; we typically saw them noshing on seeds, roots, and leaves. In one case, an adult was munching on a small snake, but the coati was eating from the snake’s tail; the poor snake was still alive.
Sometimes, nature is a bitch.
At one point during the trip, I asked our excellent guide, Johan, about Costa Rican bats. He mentioned that many bats rest under large leaves during daylight hours. Later, as if he planned it, Johan pointed out a little bat, this Northern Ghost Bat, Diclidurus albus, resting under the protection of a large palm leaf.
Like bats worldwide, this little dude and his bat buddies are important pollinators and seed dispersers.
We frog hunted several nights, visiting nearby ponds, listening to nocturnal chirps and (fingers-crossed!) hoping for glimpses of eye-catching Costa Rican frogs. We saw a few Green-and-Black Poison Dart Frogs, Dendrobates auratus, but our photos weren’t clear, they simply looked like black and lime-green squiggles.
I don’t know the names of either of these two beauties, but they, and their kind, brightened the night life with their songs and good looks.
Yes, we saw sloths.
Cute, cute sloths. Hard-to-see-unless-pointed-out-to-us, sloths! We visited a small sanctuary with pathways winding through a dense, dark forested area. It didn’t take long before Johan spotted a sloth, which looked like a bundle of leaves way up near the top of the trees. This cutey is a Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth. Watch him stretch and move, sloth-like, ever so slowly!
Both the photo and video were taken with Steven’s (my husband) cell phone camera through Johan’s scope.
We were fortunate to observe this mother and her baby.
The sanctuary also is home to some Hoffman’s two-toed Sloths, but we didn’t see any.
Not far from the sloth sanctuary, we stopped at a favorite cafe of Johan’s to enjoy some delicious dragon fruit ice cream. It was some of the best ice cream I’ve ever eaten. Also having a snack, but of veggies from the cafe’s kitchen, were a troupe of Iguanas. This handsome male Green Iguana and his entourage of females are maybe just a bit scary–I mean, they’re really big lizards!
We cautiously eyed one another: me slurping my ice cream, iguanas crunching their veggies. While he may be called a Green Iguana, he isn’t green–as you can see. Costa Rican Green Iguanas come in different colors.
We also saw a number of iguanas on our wetland boat tour of the Tarcoles River, in the Central Pacific coastal area. Iguana’s are adept climbers, comfortable in trees.
Along the Tarcoles River boat trip Howler monkeys were tucked away in a thicket, eating foliage, and sedentary. Our boat and presence made them uncomfortable and the the howl that the male delivered resonated with warning. The good captain moved away, so as not to disturb them further.
In the Arenal volcano area, Spider monkeys were active and such fun to watch. Those arms-n-legs! Those tails! That agility! They climbed and swung through the trees, traveling from their daytime feeding areas to their nighttime nesting spots, all the action taking place just behind our lodge. They put on a good show!
There were 20-30 in this family group, including a mother and her baby. At one point, she needed to jump from one tree to another, a longer distance than most of her jumps, and was clearly nervous about jumping. As her infant was attached to her, she hesitated, she swung the limb she rested on, back and forth to gain momentum for the jump, but just couldn’t make the leap for several minutes. Eventually, she sprang, baby hanging on, and they landed safely.
Life is challenging when you’re a mom, especially if you swing from tree to tree. I hope they both rested well that night.
Some of our experiences during the trip happened so quickly that we hardly processed the event in real time and certainly weren’t focused enough to get photos or videos. One was as we ended a hike in the Orosi Valley, a young White-tailed fawn bolted out of the forest, just in front of us, and bounded away. As we looked, agape, just to our left, a handsome, dark-coated tayra ambled toward our path, then, viewing us, moved back into the cover of the forest. A weasel-type of mammal, tayras are omnivores. Johan speculated that the tayra was hunting and flushed out the fawn from its hiding place. He also wondered if the deer would be permanently separated from its mother.
The second drama unfolded during our hike in the Carara National Park when a pack of agouties spent several minutes chasing one another, their screeches echoing in the dense undergrowth. The agouti is a large and cute rodent, common in many parts of Central and South America. At several points, the agouties came within 4 or 5 feet of us, banking away as they continued pursuing one another, issuing their screeches all the while. We were confused and wondered about their motivation, until I noticed two of them, a male and female, mating, just off to our right. So it was a agouti-type OK Cupid flirt party and we were right in the middle of it!
Our time in Costa Rica was filled with wonder and great appreciation of the natural world. Coupled with that, we were welcomed by Costa Ricans and felt at home. We will return one day to this very special place; there’s so much to see and experience.
Just to be clear: I like birds. I think they’re beautiful and endlessly fascinating. I’m gobsmacked at their migration and survival abilities, as well as their range of shapes, colors, and life histories. That being said, I’m not sure I’m much of a birder. I don’t drop everything and run to see an unusual bird near my area, much less one that has been spotted far away, requiring travel. I regularly use the Merlin and eBird apps, but I don’t keep a list of my lifetime bird identifications. Instead of being quiet when I see a new bird, I sometime squeal with delight. No real birder would do that.
Also, I refuse to make bird sounds.
I knew this trip to would be, at least to some degree, about birds, and though I connected with a Costa Rican bird expert to guide us, I emphasized that I’m interested in all of it: all flora and all fauna–and Johan didn’t disappoint on that score.
But Johan really is a bird-nerd. He’s knowledgeable and passionate about birds and that enthusiasm proved infectious for me. Though I don’t keep lists, I know that we observed 188 species of birds in our nine-plus days in Costa Rica, including 17 hummingbird species and plenty of rare and gorgeous birds. This post doesn’t have photos of all 188 bird species (I caught that sigh of relief), but instead, only a select few, chosen for clarity and variety, representing each geographical area that we visited.
In the Orosi Valley, this Lesser Violetear, Colibri cyanotus, perched prettily on a Mexican Bush Sage, Salvia leucantha.
Another posed at the Paraiso Quetzal lodge gardens in the highlands of the Cerro de la Muerte. This gorgeous little thing ranges throughout the southern part of Central America and along the northern Pacific Coast of South America.
Back in the Orosi Valley, Yellow-faced Grassquits, Tiaris olivaceus, were common, as they are in parts of Mexico and all of Central America.
At our hotel, this character, a male Montezuma Oropendola, Psarocolius montezuma, enjoyed banana for breakfast while we humans enjoyed fabulous fruit, coffee and omelettes.
This must be a juvenile Violet-headed Hummingbird, Klais guimeti. It’s cheekily sticking out its tongue and looks annoyed, teenager-like, as I’m taking its photo.
The Talamanca Hummingbird, Eugenes spectabilis, is notable for its size–it’s a big’un! Endemic to Costa Rica, we observed quite a few of these beauties in the highlands.
I’m particularly fond of sparrows and this busy little Rufous-collared Sparrow, Zonotrichia capensis, was fun to watch. We observed many of these birds, all nibbling along the ground, flitting between shrubbery.
Perhaps not the showiest of birds, the sweet-faced Clay-colored Thrush, Turdus grayi, is Costa Rica’s national bird. These are common and widespread throughout the region; I also notice that eBird reports its range includes South Texas.
Finches that I’m familiar with are all tiny birds. Not so this Large-footed Finch, Pezopetes capitalis. It really does have quite a large set of feet! We observed these birds in the underbrush and shrubs of the highlands.
A Black-and-yellow Silky-flycatcher, Phainoptila melanoxantha lives in mountainous areas. eBird describes the bird as “Slow-moving, often sitting still.” That partially explains my success with the photo.
I prefer bird photos in more natural settings, but sometimes (or many times) that just isn’t possible. So it was with capturing this male White-throated Mountain-gem, Lampornis castaneoventris. As stunning as he is, the female sports a tangerine-colored breast, which is an unusual color in the palette of hummers. I saw several females, but could never get a clear photo–the gals were too zippy.
In limited areas of Central America, including a spot on our itinerary, reside the Resplendent Quetzal, Pharomachrus mocinno (costaricensis). I’m not sure what I can add to the photos, except that quetzals really are resplendent. We visited a private preserve where the owner has fruit feeding stations; the birds exit their forest homes to visit and nosh in the early mornings.
The photos look as if we’re near to the quetzals, but we were not that close; these birds must observed at a distance. Johan carries with him a very cool scope which he sets up and dismantles as needed during birding sessions. My husband’s cell phone has an excellent camera, and paired with the scope (the camera placed at the eye piece of the scope) a fairly clear, seemingly close-up photo emerges and can be taken from a substantial distance.
The quetzals put on a good show; we saw two males and two females. The males chased one another, their long, showy tales undulating in flight as they flew in and out of the forested area.
We were awed by these rare and spectacular birds who live in various mountain areas in Central America. The Resplendent Quetzal is the national bird of Guatemala.
Another stunner in the highlands was this Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher, Ptiliogonys caudatus. Johan and I saw two of these pretties one morning on our way to breakfast, and I’d seen one at a previous stop the day before. He mentioned that there are some who think this is a more beautiful bird than the quetzal. I could get behind that argument!
This Blue-gray Tanager, Thraupis episcopus, was one of three we observed and is one of my favorite birds from this trip. Generally, I think tanagers are pretty birds, but this one’s blue, two-toned coloring is birder swoon-worthy.
Another lovely tanager is this Flame-colored Tanager, Piranga bidentata. Its coloring is particularly deep; maybe the papaya’s coloring is reflected in the bird’s feathers. Or is it the other way around?
Even though this woodpecker cutey has relatives in Texas and throughout the western part of the US, I had to travel to Costa Rica to see an Acorn Woodpecker, Melanerpes formicivorus. That’s fine, it was well worth the trip!
A busy little warbler, a Collared Redstart, Myioborus torquatus, didn’t stay still for long. Foraging along the ground and lower limbs, it was part of a mixed flock of birds that we spotted on a hike.
We were fortunate to see this Volcano Junco, Junco vulcani, in the highest altitudes of Costa Rica, the Páramo. The bird lives in limited areas of Costa Rica and western Panama. eBird describes its amber colored eye, surrounded by black feathers, as “demonic,” but I find the look arresting and attractive, not at all demonic! I liked this area; different plants aside, it reminded me of the Texas Hill Country with low growing plants and beautiful rock formations.
The next area we visited was the Puntarenas Province along the central Pacific Coast. Stereotypical “tropical” birds live in this region, colorful and often chatty, like this Mealy Parrot, Amazona farinosa. This particular parrot is considered “uncommon” and hangs out in the tropical lowlands. The various parrot species we saw were typically flying over in groups, nosily announcing their presence.
I grew up along the Texas coast and am familiar with the water bird, Roseate Spoonbill, Platalea agaga. They range throughout much of North and South America. These two pinkies decorated the shore of the Tarcoles River.
A wetlands version of birds on a wire…
Another common North and South American bird is the Osprey, Pandion haliaetus, but it’s always a treat to see one. This handsome bird was on the hunt, looking for a delicious fish lunch.
I like the look of this Boat-billed Heron, Cochlearius cochlearius. Its big eyes are enchanting, giving it a coy look, and that bill looks like it could hold a fair amount of fish.
We saw a couple of kinds of trogons, who are related to the quetzals. This colorful Slaty-tailed Trogon, Trogon massena, is a male, the female was deeper in the rainforest. He sat nicely for the photo shoot.
Early in the morning (it was light by about 5am) this Yellow-throated Toucan, Ramphastos ambiguus, enjoyed his breakfast of fruit. The unwieldy beak holding its prize is slightly obscured by a leaf.
Another lovely tanager, this male Bay-headed Tanager, Tangara gyrola, flitted among lower limbs, searching for juicy fruit.
These four Silver-throated Tanagers, Tangara icterocephala, have found the sweet spot for fruit! I’m sure they’re thinking: We love to eat out at the feeding stations!Yum, bananas!
I enjoyed observing the migratory birds, specifically warblers, who I see in my own garden in Texas during spring and autumn. I saw quite a few familiar faces-n-feathers during the trip, like this female (or juvenile male) Chestnut-sided Warbler, Setophaga pensylvanica.
It was affirming to see them, knowing that they successfully made the arduous trip from North America and are safe in their winter homes. I’ll definitely see some of these neo-tropical species at my pond and in my trees in late spring.
I never managed a solidly clear photo of this head-turner of a bird, the Scarlet-rumped Tanager, Ramphocelus passerinii, even with multiple sightings. Nonetheless, imagine how stunning that deep black and vibrant red are, as the bird moves through the forest.
Scarlet Macaw, Ara macao. Raucous and clownish, we saw a couple of groups of them. This one, stared (or was it a glare?) at me. But, it remained still enough for a quick photo and that’s something for these silly birds.
I was excited to see two honeycreeper species as the only ones I’ve ever seen are on nature programs. Only this Red-legged Honeycreeper, Cyanerpes cyaneus, granted me a *sort of* of clear shot, though.
The other honeycreeper, a female Green Honeycreeper, Chlorophanes spiza, was not much more than an emerald smear through my lens; she was too quick and too far away for a good photo. Maybe next trip…
Costa Rica boasts six kingfisher species and we were privileged to observe four of the six during our visit to the Caño Wildlife Refuge in northern part of the country. This one, an American Pygmy Kingfisher, Chloroceryle aenea, was a surprise to Johan–he didn’t expect that we’d see a Pygmy. She truly is a petite bird and was content to perch on the branch, even as our intrepid boat captain maneuvered close-ish to her for our birding shots.
The other kingfisher that sat for a portrait was a Green Kingfisher, Chloroceryle americana.
I’m chuffed that my shot of this in-flight Great Egret, Ardea alba, was a success. The sky was pearly-grey, so not the best background. I would have preferred a picturesque blue one instead, but beggars cannot be choosers, so I choose to be satisfied.
This stout bird, a Prong-billed Barbet, Semnornis frantzii, is an interesting looking fella. The light blue bill contrasts with the golden head and breast, but somehow, it all works together. He looks rather proud of himself.
On our last evening in Costa Rica, not too long before dark, we ambled through the stunning gardens of the Bougainvillea Hotel in San Jose. This Turquoise-browed Motmot, Eumomota superciliosa, flitted from shrub to tree, mirroring our walk.
As dark descended over the garden, we also saw two owl species: A Mottled Owl and a Tropical Screech Owl; they completed the list of four owl species we observed. It was a very Costa Rican birdy send-off at the end of our trip.
This short list of birds is but a feather in a very big nest of what we saw and what Costa Rica offers. Obviously, the wildly colored and rare tropical birds were a blast to see, but I was pleased to see birds that live in Texas, but that I’d never before observed, like Great Kiskadees and Prothonotary Warblers.
Birding aside, as we traveled, the rich environment is truly inspiring and Costa Ricans’ pride in their beautiful country well deserved.