Birds of Costa Rica

Just to be clear: I like birds. I think they’re beautiful and endlessly fascinating. I’m gobsmacked at their migration and survival abilities, as well as their range of shapes, colors, and life histories. That being said, I’m not sure I’m much of a birder. I don’t drop everything and run to see an unusual bird near my area, much less one that has been spotted far away, requiring travel. I regularly use the Merlin and eBird apps, but I don’t keep a list of my lifetime bird identifications. Instead of being quiet when I see a new bird, I sometime squeal with delight. No real birder would do that.

Also, I refuse to make bird sounds.

I knew this trip to would be, at least to some degree, about birds, and though I connected with a Costa Rican bird expert to guide us, I emphasized that I’m interested in all of it: all flora and all fauna–and Johan didn’t disappoint on that score.

But Johan really is a bird-nerd. He’s knowledgeable and passionate about birds and that enthusiasm proved infectious for me. Though I don’t keep lists, I know that we observed 188 species of birds in our nine-plus days in Costa Rica, including 17 hummingbird species and plenty of rare and gorgeous birds. This post doesn’t have photos of all 188 bird species (I caught that sigh of relief), but instead, only a select few, chosen for clarity and variety, representing each geographical area that we visited.

In the Orosi Valley, this Lesser Violetear, Colibri cyanotus, perched prettily on a Mexican Bush Sage, Salvia leucantha.

Another posed at the Paraiso Quetzal lodge gardens in the highlands of the Cerro de la Muerte. This gorgeous little thing ranges throughout the southern part of Central America and along the northern Pacific Coast of South America.

Back in the Orosi Valley, Yellow-faced Grassquits, Tiaris olivaceus, were common, as they are in parts of Mexico and all of Central America.

At our hotel, this character, a male Montezuma Oropendola, Psarocolius montezuma, enjoyed banana for breakfast while we humans enjoyed fabulous fruit, coffee and omelettes.

This must be a juvenile Violet-headed Hummingbird, Klais guimeti. It’s cheekily sticking out its tongue and looks annoyed, teenager-like, as I’m taking its photo.

The Talamanca Hummingbird, Eugenes spectabilis, is notable for its size–it’s a big’un! Endemic to Costa Rica, we observed quite a few of these beauties in the highlands.

I’m particularly fond of sparrows and this busy little Rufous-collared Sparrow, Zonotrichia capensis, was fun to watch. We observed many of these birds, all nibbling along the ground, flitting between shrubbery.

Perhaps not the showiest of birds, the sweet-faced Clay-colored Thrush, Turdus grayi, is Costa Rica’s national bird. These are common and widespread throughout the region; I also notice that eBird reports its range includes South Texas.

Finches that I’m familiar with are all tiny birds. Not so this Large-footed Finch, Pezopetes capitalis. It really does have quite a large set of feet! We observed these birds in the underbrush and shrubs of the highlands.

A Black-and-yellow Silky-flycatcher, Phainoptila melanoxantha lives in mountainous areas. eBird describes the bird as “Slow-moving, often sitting still.” That partially explains my success with the photo.

I prefer bird photos in more natural settings, but sometimes (or many times) that just isn’t possible. So it was with capturing this male White-throated Mountain-gem, Lampornis castaneoventris. As stunning as he is, the female sports a tangerine-colored breast, which is an unusual color in the palette of hummers. I saw several females, but could never get a clear photo–the gals were too zippy.

In limited areas of Central America, including a spot on our itinerary, reside the Resplendent Quetzal, Pharomachrus mocinno (costaricensis). I’m not sure what I can add to the photos, except that quetzals really are resplendent. We visited a private preserve where the owner has fruit feeding stations; the birds exit their forest homes to visit and nosh in the early mornings.

The photos look as if we’re near to the quetzals, but we were not that close; these birds must observed at a distance. Johan carries with him a very cool scope which he sets up and dismantles as needed during birding sessions. My husband’s cell phone has an excellent camera, and paired with the scope (the camera placed at the eye piece of the scope) a fairly clear, seemingly close-up photo emerges and can be taken from a substantial distance.

The quetzals put on a good show; we saw two males and two females. The males chased one another, their long, showy tales undulating in flight as they flew in and out of the forested area.

We were awed by these rare and spectacular birds who live in various mountain areas in Central America. The Resplendent Quetzal is the national bird of Guatemala.

Another stunner in the highlands was this Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher, Ptiliogonys caudatus. Johan and I saw two of these pretties one morning on our way to breakfast, and I’d seen one at a previous stop the day before. He mentioned that there are some who think this is a more beautiful bird than the quetzal. I could get behind that argument!

This Blue-gray Tanager, Thraupis episcopus, was one of three we observed and is one of my favorite birds from this trip. Generally, I think tanagers are pretty birds, but this one’s blue, two-toned coloring is birder swoon-worthy.

Another lovely tanager is this Flame-colored Tanager, Piranga bidentata. Its coloring is particularly deep; maybe the papaya’s coloring is reflected in the bird’s feathers. Or is it the other way around?

Even though this woodpecker cutey has relatives in Texas and throughout the western part of the US, I had to travel to Costa Rica to see an Acorn Woodpecker, Melanerpes formicivorus. That’s fine, it was well worth the trip!

A busy little warbler, a Collared Redstart, Myioborus torquatus, didn’t stay still for long. Foraging along the ground and lower limbs, it was part of a mixed flock of birds that we spotted on a hike.

We were fortunate to see this Volcano Junco, Junco vulcani, in the highest altitudes of Costa Rica, the Páramo. The bird lives in limited areas of Costa Rica and western Panama. eBird describes its amber colored eye, surrounded by black feathers, as “demonic,” but I find the look arresting and attractive, not at all demonic! I liked this area; different plants aside, it reminded me of the Texas Hill Country with low growing plants and beautiful rock formations.

The next area we visited was the Puntarenas Province along the central Pacific Coast. Stereotypical “tropical” birds live in this region, colorful and often chatty, like this Mealy Parrot, Amazona farinosa. This particular parrot is considered “uncommon” and hangs out in the tropical lowlands. The various parrot species we saw were typically flying over in groups, nosily announcing their presence.

I grew up along the Texas coast and am familiar with the water bird, Roseate Spoonbill, Platalea agaga. They range throughout much of North and South America. These two pinkies decorated the shore of the Tarcoles River.

A wetlands version of birds on a wire…

Another common North and South American bird is the Osprey, Pandion haliaetus, but it’s always a treat to see one. This handsome bird was on the hunt, looking for a delicious fish lunch.

I like the look of this Boat-billed Heron, Cochlearius cochlearius. Its big eyes are enchanting, giving it a coy look, and that bill looks like it could hold a fair amount of fish.

We saw a couple of kinds of trogons, who are related to the quetzals. This colorful Slaty-tailed Trogon, Trogon massena, is a male, the female was deeper in the rainforest. He sat nicely for the photo shoot.

Early in the morning (it was light by about 5am) this Yellow-throated Toucan, Ramphastos ambiguus, enjoyed his breakfast of fruit. The unwieldy beak holding its prize is slightly obscured by a leaf.

Another lovely tanager, this male Bay-headed Tanager, Tangara gyrola, flitted among lower limbs, searching for juicy fruit.

These four Silver-throated Tanagers, Tangara icterocephala, have found the sweet spot for fruit! I’m sure they’re thinking: We love to eat out at the feeding stations! Yum, bananas!

I enjoyed observing the migratory birds, specifically warblers, who I see in my own garden in Texas during spring and autumn. I saw quite a few familiar faces-n-feathers during the trip, like this female (or juvenile male) Chestnut-sided Warbler, Setophaga pensylvanica.

It was affirming to see them, knowing that they successfully made the arduous trip from North America and are safe in their winter homes. I’ll definitely see some of these neo-tropical species at my pond and in my trees in late spring.

I never managed a solidly clear photo of this head-turner of a bird, the Scarlet-rumped Tanager, Ramphocelus passerinii, even with multiple sightings. Nonetheless, imagine how stunning that deep black and vibrant red are, as the bird moves through the forest.

Scarlet Macaw, Ara macao. Raucous and clownish, we saw a couple of groups of them. This one, stared (or was it a glare?) at me. But, it remained still enough for a quick photo and that’s something for these silly birds.

I was excited to see two honeycreeper species as the only ones I’ve ever seen are on nature programs. Only this Red-legged Honeycreeper, Cyanerpes cyaneus, granted me a *sort of* of clear shot, though.

The other honeycreeper, a female Green Honeycreeper, Chlorophanes spiza, was not much more than an emerald smear through my lens; she was too quick and too far away for a good photo. Maybe next trip…

Costa Rica boasts six kingfisher species and we were privileged to observe four of the six during our visit to the Caño Wildlife Refuge in northern part of the country. This one, an American Pygmy Kingfisher, Chloroceryle aenea, was a surprise to Johan–he didn’t expect that we’d see a Pygmy. She truly is a petite bird and was content to perch on the branch, even as our intrepid boat captain maneuvered close-ish to her for our birding shots.

The other kingfisher that sat for a portrait was a Green Kingfisher, Chloroceryle americana.

I’m chuffed that my shot of this in-flight Great Egret, Ardea alba, was a success. The sky was pearly-grey, so not the best background. I would have preferred a picturesque blue one instead, but beggars cannot be choosers, so I choose to be satisfied.

This stout bird, a Prong-billed Barbet, Semnornis frantzii, is an interesting looking fella. The light blue bill contrasts with the golden head and breast, but somehow, it all works together. He looks rather proud of himself.

On our last evening in Costa Rica, not too long before dark, we ambled through the stunning gardens of the Bougainvillea Hotel in San Jose. This Turquoise-browed Motmot, Eumomota superciliosa, flitted from shrub to tree, mirroring our walk.

As dark descended over the garden, we also saw two owl species: A Mottled Owl and a Tropical Screech Owl; they completed the list of four owl species we observed. It was a very Costa Rican birdy send-off at the end of our trip.

This short list of birds is but a feather in a very big nest of what we saw and what Costa Rica offers. Obviously, the wildly colored and rare tropical birds were a blast to see, but I was pleased to see birds that live in Texas, but that I’d never before observed, like Great Kiskadees and Prothonotary Warblers.

Birding aside, as we traveled, the rich environment is truly inspiring and Costa Ricans’ pride in their beautiful country well deserved.

Pura Vida

My husband and I have long wanted to visit Costa Rica. Recently, we were privileged to spend some enchanted time in this stunning Central American country. I know quite a few people who’ve traveled to, or lived in, Costa Rica, and every one has absolutely loved the country and the nice folks who call it home.

Costa Ricans are known for their warmth. Each day of our visit, friendly waves and bright smiles greeted us, usually with a polite buenas días, or buenas noches as an added bonus. No transaction or conversation was complete without a gracias and responding mucho gusto!

Fisherman returning to shore in Puntarenas Province

Yes, we’re obviously tourists and locals in most places are usually friendly with tourists, but when strolling through small communities or dining at local (and fabulous!) restaurants, Costa Ricans were always gracious. We were welcomed and charmed throughout the trip.

Rio Sevegre
Sunset at Orosi Valley

Because we’re interested in the flora and fauna of the region, we didn’t spend much time in larger cities and opted to hire an expert in Costa Rica’s environment as a guide. Our focus was visiting gardens and national parks, along with enjoying scenic drives through lush landscapes.

Poinsettia, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Impatiens
Lake Cachi
Rio Sevegre

Through a recommendation from a Facebook ‘Birds of Texas’ contact, we connected with Johan Weintz Aguilar to guide and host our time in Costa Rica. Johan is Costa Rican and was an excellent choice. Incredibly knowledgeable (and patient!), he’s also a great driver, and an all-around sweet-heart of a guy. We had nine-plus wonderful days together: Johan teaching, Tina and Steven learning–the three of us sharing a slice of Costa Rican pura vida.

Brazilian Red Cloak, Megaskepasma erythrochlamys
Rio Frio at Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge
Unknown bloom, pierced by insect or bird for nectar stealing

Pura vida is a phrase which defines lovely Costa Rica. What is it? Pura vida is a greeting, a farewell, a slogan–a way of life. Pura vida is about living and enjoying each moment and appreciating the beauty that life offers. Costa Rica is the definition of beauty and it’s no wonder that this special place consistently ranks as one of the world’s happiest countries.

Poor Man’s Umbrella, Gunnera insignis
Parrot Heliconia, Helconia psittacorum

Costa Rica disbanded their army in 1948 and instead of funding a military, have wisely invested in education, culture, and protection of the environment. An educated population, the literacy rate tops 97%, with both public and private schools and universities creating a workforce for thriving ecotourism, art, agriculture, and related fields.

Shrubby fuchsia, Fuchsia paniculata

The United States could learn a thing or two from that example…

Costa Rica is a small country: in American-speak, it’s roughly the size of West Virginia; in Euro-speak, it’s the size of Denmark. That being said, about 6% of the world’s species live in Costa Rica, even though its landmass is only 0.03% of the planet. That’s a lot of flora and fauna and other cool stuff packed into a small package!

The least dangerous crocodile we observed
Various gingers in a Orosi Valley garden

Costa Rica’s leaders have wisely protected upwards of 25% of their land, with incentives awarded to private landowners for protection of even more of the natural landscapes and ecosystems. So while there are cattle and produce farms, fruit and coffee plantations galore, as well as bustling population centers, relatively unscathed swaths of intact ecosystems are scattered throughout the country, allowing for corridors for bird/animal migration and protection of healthy, bio-diverse green space throughout the country.

Moss, fern, algae, other leaf matter covering rock
Mangrove along the Tarcoles River

Costa Rica resides in the narrow strip of land connecting North and South America, bordered on the west by the Pacific Ocean and on the east by the Caribbean Sea. The Central Valley of Costa Rica holds most of Costa Rica’s population, including the capital city, San Jose. Various mountain ranges thread the length of the country; the highest peak, Mount Chirripó, is 12,536 feet/3821 meters.   Mountainous terrain allows for rapid changes in humidity, rainfall, and temperatures; varied biological systems range from tropical rain forests to alpine tundra.  Mountains also act as blocks to humidity and rainfall: the Caribbean side receive great amounts of rainfall, while parts of Costa Rica’s western side experience dry periods.

Costa Rica boasts four distinct biological environments, defined by rainfall amounts and temperature variations:  tropical rain forests, tropical dry forests, tropical cloud forests and páramo (dry, alpine).

Sevegre hiking trail
Páramo
Cloud rain forest

Our trip started in the capital city, San Jose. We then drove southeast to the Orosi Valley and visited Tapanti National Park and Rio Macho Reserve. Moving southward and following the Pan-American Highway, we traversed the mountainous terrain of the Cerra de la Muerte. This highland area where we spent a couple of days is a particular favorite of mine. Traveling west and north, the Central Pacific Coast followed on the itinerary. This region combines the tropical dry forest which overlaps with the tropical rainforest, creating the opportunity for great bird watching and stunning landscapes. Carara National Park is located here and boasts dense, lush hiking trails. Heading north, we ended at Arenal Volcano National Park–another fascinating place with beautiful gardens and remarkable wildlife.

Arenal Volcano

Our last full day included a trip northward near to the Nicaraguan border, where the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge, a fresh water wetland full of wildlife, is located. That day also included a drive back to San Jose, with more birding and beautiful scenery as we drove along twisty mountain roads, ending in the Central Valley.

The trip was well organized and allowed us to experience a wide variety of land forms, plant species, and diverse wildlife. We logged a bit over 500 miles/1100 kilometers in this small country, observed both gentle and raging rivers, dramatic waterfalls, calm lakes, huge trees, all varieties of limb and rock-hugging epiphytes, deep, dark skies sparkling with stars that I’d forgotten exist, and masses of gorgeous flowering plants.

Oh, and the birds, mammals, reptiles, and insects were pretty great too!

Unknown (to me!) orchid

We saw so much during our Costa Rica stay; my head is still full of sights, sounds, experiences. I took gobs of photos, many of which are less than sharp (ahem, really crummy…), but even those shots (especially of the birds) are clear enough for me to recall the event and to elicit sweet memories of those moments.

Waterfall near Arenal Volcano

I plan another post or two about our too-brief time in Costa Rica, focusing on the incredible birds and other wildlife that we observed. In Costa Rica, biodiversity rocks!

Sunset over Pacific Ocean